Matured Matcha "Ryūdo no Mukashi" — Koicha (Thick Tea)

Roppongi was once called Ryūdo — the land where, it is said, a dragon once descended. In spring, tencha hand-picked in Uji is sealed here in Roppongi inside a tea jar (Chatsubo) and left to rest for about six months. In an age that hurries toward efficiency, we choose instead to cherish the tea's time to rest. Time loosens the edges of a young tea and deepens its umami and natural sweetness.

In November comes Kuchikiri: the seal of the jar is cut, and tea that has crossed the seasons is ground for the first time that year on a stone mill — the Tea Master's New Year. Prepared with a little water and kneaded slowly, koicha carries a still, sinking quiet. Ryūdo no Mukashi is one arrival point of a long making — from the soil of the garden, to the time held in the jar, to the bowl in your hands.

About this Matcha

• Origin & maker: Shōgyokuen, a venerable Uji tea producer founded in 1827. Own-garden, hand-picked. Its head holds the "10th-dan," the highest rank in tea appraisal — one of only a handful in Japan.
• A rarely-seen leaf: Tencha, the leaf before it becomes matcha, is almost never sold at retail by tea gardens. This off-market tencha is shared with us by Shōgyokuen.
• Cultivation: Traditional Honzu shading — for about twenty days before harvest, the garden is covered with straw (wara) and reed screens (yoshizu). The softened light draws out deep umami and a vivid green.
• Ageing: About six months in a tea jar (Chatsubo) in Roppongi. Sharp astringency unwinds; the flavour deepens and rounds — the heart of Matured Matcha.
• Finishing: Ground on a stone mill after the November Kuchikiri.
• Taste: Dense and smooth, with gentle astringency and a long finish of sweetness and umami. A vivid, deep green.
• Preparation: Koicha grade. Kneaded slowly with a little, slightly cooler water into a rich, concentrated bowl; a small amount goes far. It may also be whisked and enjoyed as usucha.
• Occasions: A special bowl, welcoming guests, or practice in the way of tea.
• With the vessel: Served amid the crafted vessels gathered at wanova TOKYO — from Living National Treasures to contemporary artists.